PiGrrl Pocket

A peak at the inner componentspocket pi grrl 2

Parts List:

Adafruit PiTFT 2.4″ HAT

USD$ 34.95

PowerBoost 1000

USD$ 19.95

Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier

USD$ 3.95

Tactile Switch Buttons (6mm slim) x 20 pack

USD$ 4.95

Mini Metal Speaker

USD$ 1.50

Breadboard-friendly SPDT Slide Switch

USD$ 0.95

Tactile Push Button Switch Momentary

CDN$ 10.59

Faceplate and Buttons Pack for 2.4″ PiTFT HAT

USD$ 4.95

Raspberry Pi 1 A+ 512MB

CDN$ 31.78

SODIAL(R) Classical 10pcs Solder Finished Prototype PCB

CDN$ 3.36

Lithium Ion Polymer Battery – 3.7v 2500mAh

USD$ 14.95

40pcs 20cm Female to Female Jumper

CDN$ 2.51

ADATA Premier 32GB microSDHC UHS-I Class 10

CDN$ 19.99

Pocket PiGrrl


Comments: This is the case design used in the Adafruit tutorial. It comes in 2 variants, one with A, B, X and Y buttons and one with only A and B buttons. Of course, since Super Nintendo is one of the playable consoles I went with the 4 button variant. Its a really nice size for a game console as well, it being smaller than the official game boy pocket and all. The case does have some weaknesses though. There are no screws holding the corner with the speaker together and instead, the tutorial recommends you buy a couple mini magnets to do it. The cables also barely fit into the case and their combined pressure next to the screen has made a bulge in the case wall.


Comments: This was my second ever attempt at a Raspberry Pi emulation machine so I went out of my way to find a tutorial this time. This attempt definitely looks better than my last one but it has a number of disadvantages as well. For starters, this design uses the significantly less powerful Raspberry Pi A+ instead of the Raspberry Pi 3 model B which means it’s also lacking wifi and Bluetooth. It also uses a smaller screen which makes small fonts unreadable. Most annoyingly of all this tutorial forces you to use components only obtainable from Adafruit. This might not be too bad if you live in the states, but as a Canadian, it meant spending an arm and a leg on currency exchange rates and shipping fees, which is something I didn’t really have to deal with when ordering more affordable parts from China. It uses a much smaller battery rated at 2500mah which lasts about 4 hours and when factoring in the price of the boost/recharge circuit comes out to an outrageous price. But on the bright side, the mini speaker has much higher volume than the one I used last time around. This design actually fits comfortably in your hands and the polished design of the case made installing everything much simpler. Of course, I took some liberties deviating from the tutorial since I preferred to use my own buttons over 3D printed ones, and I already owned my own perf board and jumper cables so spending the extra money on a ribbon cable seemed unnecessary.


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